This spring, I headed into the High Berg with four members of the younger generation. I always knew that moving back to live at Montusi would come with certain responsibilities. Living and working for a family legacy means your life, your family and your work all become entwined together.
Extricating myself from the responsibilities of this legacy has, for a long time, seemed impossible. However, while I was having a discussion about the feeling of entrapment that comes with doing life in this amazing, beautiful place, a bright blue kingfisher zipped past me.
It seemed to have a message that freedom and maintaining the legacy could exist simultaneously. Inspired by that flash of reckless blue abandon, I wangled my way onto my nephew’s imminent multi-day hiking trip into the High Berg.
The “young ones” (all experienced hikers in their late 20s) graciously included me at the last minute and took care of all the pre-departure organising, allowing me to tie up my work- and family-related loose ends.
The night before departure, they delivered my personal snack pack and the team’s cooking gear to add to my load. After packing and repacking to fit in the pot, kettle, coffee-plunger and stove, I settled into bed for a restless night of anticipation.
At dawn, I kissed my sleeping kids, loaded up the gigantic monstrosity of a backpack and piled into the bakkie with the rest of the team. My wonderful husband, the adventurous half of our marriage, dropped us all off with a tight hug and a whispered: “I’ve got this; you just enjoy the adventure.”
With my phone switched off, I shed my role as mom/boss/auntie, and immersed myself in a hiking adventure that would enrich my soul beyond all imagination…
Meet the Team
Our intrepid Team Leader — my nephew — has several epic expeditions under his belt, and a gentle manner which transformed this gruelling expedition into a joyful saunter through the enormous and unforgiving hills.
The rest of the team consisted of the incredibly strong Earth Child; the deeply kind and always delighted Amazing Fairy; and the quiet and insightful, although not terribly stable on his feet, Stumbles. We each shrugged on our 20kg+ backpacks and surveyed the impressive peaks surrounding the Cathedral Peak Hotel.
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Planning, and then setting out from Cathedral Peak Hotel — the adventure begins.
Day 1: The Tseketseke Pass
We gained elevation quite gently until lunchtime when we took a break at a stunning pool in the gurgling Berg stream below the Tseketseke Hut. A refreshing skinny dip and a feast of wraps, followed by a milky filter coffee, had us refuelled and ready for the massive challenge ahead. Three kilometres and nearly 1,000 metres of elevation loomed before us.
Before half an hour had passed, we knew a walking stick would be imperative for survival on this boulder-hopping mission. I found a half-broken branch — almost as tall as me, and strong enough to lean on, but rather heavy. It exuded Gandalf vibes. The others harvested smaller sticks, good for Hobbits.
“One does not simply walk to the top of the High Berg.”
Despite the internet grading this pass a 6/10 for difficulty, I found myself resting my head on my stick and contemplating my life choices, thinking that this might be the most difficult physical feat I had ever attempted.
We eventually summited the pass as darkness descended and the stars peeped through their dark ceiling. Coming off the escarpment onto the plateau, we found our way to a stream and set camp in the dark.
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The Tseketseke Pass — brutal, beautiful, unforgettable.
Five Days on Top of the World
Over the next five days, we enjoyed the most beautiful views, crystal-clear rivers, alarmingly fragile and intricate flowers, and kilometres upon kilometres of unspoilt space.
There is a purity in a High Berg adventure. It challenges every sinew in your body to keep moving, but around every bend and over every hill there is another eye-wateringly beautiful scene. The caves offered us shelter. The rivers kept us hydrated, clean and invigorated. The sun warmed us. The birds tolerated us, and the flowers wowed us over and over again.
And then there was the pool with the little fish! In the middle of our biggest day, the pool caught us and held us like Odysseus’ Lotus Isle. We paid for the joyous interlude as we trudged up the last massive mountain in the dark, before setting camp in the howling gale at the top of Tugela Falls.
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Kilometres of unspoilt wilderness on the High Berg plateau.
Down the Chain Ladders
Sunrise atop the world’s highest waterfall was worth every step of that 36km hike the day before. Descending the chain-ladders with our alarmingly still huge and heavy backpacks and trusty walking sticks was a feat of its own, but we all managed to alight safely at the bottom.
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Top of Tugela Falls, and the descent via the Amphitheatre chain ladders.
The Long Way Home
The rolling green grassy hills of the Little Berg welcomed us home. Before the final descent into the Cannibal Cave, we took a minute to feel the air rising out of the valleys and the silence of the mountains around us. We gazed across to The Bell, Cathedral Peak, the Mnweni Cutback, the Eastern Buttress, the Amphitheatre and the Sentinel. What a journey.
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Bottlebrush in bloom and the fragile wildflowers of the High Berg.
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The caves of the Northern Traverse, and the dramatic escarpment edge.
The Last Day
Arriving in the colossal Cannibal Cavern, Stumbles and the Amazing Fairy, first-time visitors to the cave, were gobsmacked by the scale of the overhang. Our last night was the only time we had a proper fire. The magic of the flames and shadows dancing on the cave roof had us transfixed for ages.
Lying alone in the lower section of the cave, a scan with the torch revealed a pair of eyes! A large and fluffy genet stared intently at me before prowling off into the darkness. Thankfully, the exertion of the week had me asleep before too long.
Our last day had us walking through the Fern Forest of the Northern Drakensberg Nature Reserve. Seeing the forest through the eyes of my hiking companions refilled my own sense of wonder and awe for the ancient trees of this magical forest, just a tiny stroll from the Cavern Resort buildings.
Team complete — the Northern Traverse done.
Before we rejoined humanity, we took a minute to gather in a group hug, our connection to each other almost palpable. What a gift it was to experience our world with these four souls, so full of wonder and joyous delight.
I am forever grateful for all the factors that made the adventure possible.
I am forever grateful for solid backing from a husband and business partner who single-dad-ed the kids back to school; a sister and business partner who held all my Montusi Lodge responsibilities; old friends who encourage an engaged and abundant life; and the new friends who allowed this auntie to join the adventure and inspired me to see the world anew.
By Lindsay du Plessis
- Lindsay du Plessis is the co-owner of Montusi Mountain Lodge
